A New Chapter…

      For those who are curious, I have recently just started a new chapter in my life and am currently enrolled in school to become a Licensed Practical Nurse. I am doing this intensive one-year program to further my career and branch into medical esthetics. I just wanted to let everyone know incase you were wondering why my posts are becoming few and far between. I will continue to blog because this is what I love to do, I just ask for patience as I am going to be insanely busy come the New Year. Don't worry, I am still working at Spruce every second weekend but be sure to book in advance as I am almost fully booked until February. I am super excited to venture down this new road and I’ll keep you posted on progress!

Protect your Skin!

I went skiing up in Whistler over the holidays and boy did my face take a beating! Just a friendly reminder to those who like to take advantage of outdoor activities such as skiing, sailing, surfing, riding, snow shoeing, etc., be sure to use some sort of protective barrier cream and maybe a heavier moisturizer in the winter weather to help combat dry skin season. There’s one product in particular that I’d like to mention, Barrier Repair from Dermalogica. It creates a protective shield for your skin, and it saved my face on the hill this week!  Use in on top of your moisturizer and remember a little goes a long way! Our winter has been pretty mild so far but my skin is still a little bit on the drier side so I switched back to using regenerating cream by ProDerm. It’s a nice, thick, heavy cream that absorbs nicely into the skin (it doesn’t leave you skin feeling slick or greasy…love love love it).  I’ve mentioned this particular moisturizer in older posts if you want to read up on it.  One last thing…don’t forget your SPF!!! Especially with the double reflection on the snow…you can get some serious pigmentation happening on the hill. I’m sure you all have seen goggle tans at some point in your life…not good for your skin!

Happy Holidays!! 

Breakdown of skin care products

       I get a lot of people asking what they should be doing on a daily basis for there skin. I’ve already written about the 3 most important steps in skin care, I thought it was time for me to elaborate.

Cleansing: This should be done twice a day (morning and night), everyday. If you plan to cleanse your skin only once per day, the more important cleanse would be in the evening to rid your skin of the daily pollutants, dirt and oils. There are MANY types of cleansers out there. I would recommend a professional brand purchased from a legitimate spa as most cleansers in drug stores and department stores contain detergents and other irritants. Actually I encourage you to ALWAYS purchase your skin care from a reputable spa or clinic to ensure you’re not damaging your skin with inappropriate products.

Toning: This should be done on a daily basis after cleansing your skin. Toners are traditionally used to rebalance the pH levels of your skin as water can alter it but now most toners often have hydrating properties to them (this allows your moisturizer to last longer – having to use less product).

Exfoliating: Used to refine and even out skin texture by sloughing off the dead skin cells on the surface. It’s also an important step in keeping pores clear to help prevent future breakouts. Depending on the method of exfoliating your using, this can either be done on a daily or weekly basis. Daily exfoliating cleansers usually come in forms of glycolic, salicylic or alpha hydroxy acid washes (basically any wash containing some form of acid) or a wash with gentle exfoliating particles in it. Weekly exfoliants tend to be more aggressive on the skin whether it be particles or in a mask form. These can be used 1 to 2 times a week. Read instructions for recommended frequency of use. Remember, sometimes less is more. There is such thing as over exfoliation. Signs of over exfoliation include irritation, redness and thinning of the skin.

Masques: An intense and effective way to charge your skin with nutrients or treat a specific concern (for best results, masque after doing a really good exfoliation first - this allows for better product penetration). Again, you want to read the instructions on the box for frequency of use, typically 1 – 2 times a week.

Serums/Targeted treatments: These are developed at higher concentrations with active ingredients like vitamins and anti-oxidants that are chemically formulated with smaller molecules to penetrate deeper into the epidermis. Serums are designed to treat various skin conditions such as acne, redness, dehydration, pigmentation and lack of firmness. It is best to apply these before your moisturizer.

Moisturizer:  Used to hydrate the external layers of your skin. Moisturizing should be done twice a day, everyday (morning and evening). This is the last step. I always tell my clients to apply to the outer parts of the face first (hairline, temples & cheeks) and then bring the remaining moisturizer to the center (forehead & nose). This is just because we typically produce more oils on the nose/t-zone, meaning we don’t need to apply the moisturizer there first. Start with the dryer features and then bring whatever is left over to the areas that tend to be more hydrated, naturally.

Eye Cream: Often overlooked but very important. The skin surrounding your eyes is the thinnest, most delicate skin on your body. With that being said, it needs to be treated differently. Facial moisturizers are to be kept out of the orbital zone (the area around your eyes), as they are typically too heavy for that skin and can lead to milia. Using an appropriate eye cream not only ensures proper hydration in that area but also helps to decongest (drain lymph which contributes to dark circles) and protect against free radicals that break down your skins elasticity leading to the appearance of ‘crows feet’ (fine lines around the eyes). Crows feet happen to be one of the first things to give away ones age. Don’t worry if you already have them...there’s always Botox ;) Eye creams should be used both morning and night after moisturizing your face. I will usually apply a little eye cream to my lip line as well just to prevent lip wrinkles. Be sure not to over lap facial moisturizer and eye cream as that can lead to congestion and build up. 

Oil of Oregano

            Flu season is upon us, so I thought it was only appropriate to write about this magical little cure all. Oil of Oregano is a natural substance that has significant effects on harmful organisms that cause illness.

            It is known to be a potent antiviral, anti bacterial, anti fungal, and anti parasitic oil that can reduce pain and inflammation and effectively fight off infections.  Some specific benefits include:

-       Destroying organisms that contribute to skin infections and digestive problems

-       Strengthens the immune system

-       Increases joint and muscle flexibility

-       Improves respiratory health

            Oil of oregano can be applied directly onto the skin to treat itches, skin infections and irritated gums but only if diluted! Usually need to mix with olive or coconut oil before applying topically (follow directions on the bottle for topical treatments) usually one drop of oil of oregano to one-teaspoon olive or coconut oil. If you apply the full concentration straight onto a skin infection it does not feel pleasant! So be sure to follow the directions.

            It has been shown to calm upset stomachs and aid digestion. It’s a great natural remedy for sinus infections!! Oil of Oregano is an excellent early defense mechanism when you feel a cold or sore throat coming on; just take a few drops daily to help boost your immune system until the symptoms are gone. 

A favorite few: Make up Products

1.)   Sin-full Lash Mascara by Kat Von D: If you’ve ever used Diorshow Backstage Mascara and loved it as much as I did, you will love this mascara too (and it’s not as pricey) J

2.)   Laura Mercier Secret Camoflauge: This face concealer completely camouflages dark circles, minor imperfections and discolorations. It contains a two-shade system, one to match the skins depth of color and one to match the skins undertone, making it possible for everyone to custom-blend their own perfect shade.

3.)   ColoreScience Apple of my eye blush: Easy application, great color and a little bit of shimmer, which acts as a highlight along the tops of your cheekbones.

4.)   Annabelle Kohl eyeliner – black – 73: I have been using this product for 11 years! I discovered this magical little eyeliner pencil when I was in grade 9 and have yet to find a product that is as effective as this one. All my other girlfriends are still hooked on it too. Now we don’t use it to line the tip of our lids, but instead to line the ‘wet-line’ of our inner eye. Set with an eye shadow for all daywear.

5.)   Urban Decay waterproof liquid liner: The slender tapered brush lays down long lasting matte, slick and shimmery shades. Can create lines razor-thin or thick, even and bold. The brush is easy to control as long as you have a steady hand ;)

6.)   Sephora Collection - Cream Lip Stain Forever Fuchsia (satin electric fuchsia): This BOLD long lasting stain doesn’t smudge or transfer and yet at the end of the night it’s super easy to remove.

7.)   ColoreScience Retractable Brush Foundation: Loose mineral foundation SPF 20. Simple, self-dispensing powder brush. Great coverage, balanced skin tone and glowing radiance. Once you have run out of the powder, you can continue to buy refills for the retractable brush at half the cost J

8.)   MAC Paint Pot:  A highly pigmented eye colour that goes on creamy but dries to an intense, vibrant finish. Longwearing, without weight or caking. Best to set with a powder eye shadow on top.

9.)   Antioxidant Hydramist: A refreshing, hydrating toner with ‘flash firming’ effects. Use to set your minerals (sprits the skin after applying your mineral foundation. Makes for long lasting coverage and an even distribution of SPF 20. Water resistant, anti bacterial and soothing.)

10.)         Climate control lip treatment: A soothing balm to help damaged skin recover from environmental assault while providing a barrier against harsh environmental pollutants. Great as a base under lipstick/gloss. 

New tanning trend…

        It was brought to my attention the other day that there is a new trend out there regarding UVA tanning beds. Some salons offer this tanning bed claiming that UVA rays are less damaging because they don’t contain the ray responsible for burning the skin (UVB). This is CRAZY! UVA rays penetrate further into your epidermis causing more damage to your skin in the long run. It takes longer (more tanning sessions) to develop a tan as UVB activate melanin faster then UVA. With that being said, more tanning session will be required to reach and maintain your desired tan with UVA beds. Now going back to the point that I made about UVA penetrating deeper into the skin, this is causing breakdown of collagen and elastin production, which ultimately accelerates the aging process. This leaves your skin loose, with a lack of tone and overtime, loss of volume. Is there an alternative to tanning beds?…Spray tans! Although I’m not too sure how I feel about suffocating the largest organ in your body (the skin) with an artificial color. I guess it’s no worse then lathering yourself up with heavily scented body lotions potentially full of mineral oils/petroleum, parabens, Acrylamide or Dioxane after the bath or shower. 

Physical vs. Chemical Sunscreens

Do you know what is really happening to our skin when it is hit by UVA and UVB rays? The shorter UVB rays do the majority of damage in the top layer of our skin called the epidermis – these rays are responsible for majority of suntans and burns. Longer UVA rays do the majority of damage in the second layer of our skin the dermis.  I like to remember them as UVA (Age) and UVB (Burn). The dermis is where all our collagen and structural elements reside.   When energy of these small particles of light strike our skin (where the light wave stops), the energy released alters the chemistry of that component of the skin and damages it.  This is the initial damage.  These chemical changes also produce free radicals and these radicals continue on to cause additional damage (secondary damage) to other skin components.  

 In time this repetitive photo-damage and free radical damage will break down collagen and elastin.  Your pigment cells called melanocytes become dysfunctional and produce volumes of pigment that result in age spots and other forms of pigment (hyper and/or hypo).  The fibroblast cells stop producing new collagen leaving your skin slack.  

It is estimated that 90% of sun damage is the result of unplanned or casual sun exposures when people may not have active photo-protection.  This can include riding in a car,  or just going for a short walk with their dog without wearing proper sunscreen. Unfortunately, 90% of sun damage is already done by the time you are 18 years old.

            Chemical sunscreens protect the skin by absorbing the light particles.   When this energy is absorbed, the molecules of the sunscreen are destroyed, rather than a skin component but this still results in chemical reactions (usually producing heat in the skin that can lead to irritation).Subsequently chemical sunscreens are not the most complete or effective form of sun protection. They prevent a larger degree of the initial sun damage but allow secondary free radical damage, which adds to the speed of the skin ageing process.

            Physical sunscreens on the other hand such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide work by reflecting the photons of light up and out of the skin so there is no absorption of energy.  There is no chemical reaction and no free radicals are produced.  

            A physical sunscreen is a crucial part of anti-aging and skin health. Look for products that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as their SPF. My all time favorite product line is Colorescience (obviously). I have mentioned this product in previous posts. I don’t leave the house without it, no matter what the weather is like outside. It comes in the form of a mineral make up as well as a translucent or tinted powdered SPF 30.  The perks of having it in powder for, easy application, no dripping into the eyes, and it’s cooling on the skin because it reflects the UV rays instead of absorbing it and causing a chemical reaction in the skin usually producing heat. All in all it’s just an amazing, convenient product. 

Rosacea and Sensitive skin

What is Rosacea? It is a condition cause by inflammation of the skin. The capillaries and redness that are often seen are typically caused by the skins attempt to repair itself by increasing blood supply to certain areas, and over time, the skin thins from the excessive inflammation which results in more capillaries and redness being exposed. Sensitive skin is a far less extreme version of rosacea.

There are many contributing factors to these conditions including weather (extreme heat & cold), exercise, exposure to heat (sauna’s, hot yoga, steam rooms) product reaction (allergy), scrubs, topical irritants (alcohol, perfume, dye), improper use of glycolics, retinols, etc… There is no way to correct the damage that has been done without laser treatment but you can prevent further damage by using appropriate products on your skin. You want to be using products that will protect as well as calm and sooth. Products with therapeutic doses of vitamins A, C and E, such as the AVST (Advanced Vitamin Skin Therapy) range from Environ Skin Care, increase growth at the basal layer, resulting in a thickened epidermis and a compacted corneocyte layer. The skin heals faster because the cells are growing faster, therefore in time, only the healthy keratinocytes make it to the surface. The spiny layer is thicker, collagen and elastin is healthier, so the redness that was present is not evident. The blood supply is below the epidermis so a thicker epidermis conceals the redness. To put that into plain old English, it just means thickening the skin to reduce the appearance of redness that is associated with sensitive skin and rosacea.

So if you find that your skin is continuously red and inflamed, book in to see your skin therapist to discuss options! In my opinion, the first thing you can do discontinue use of any aggressive scrubs on the face!!! Feel free to use it elsewhere as the skin on your body is much more tolerant then the skin on your face.  

BBLs – Laser Hair Removal

             BBLs stands for broad band light source. The BBL is penetrated through a Safire crystal to target pigment in the hair follicles during the active stage of growth. For example, if you were to pluck out a hair and see a bulb on the end, that is a hair that is currently in the active stage of growth. The rest of the hairs are in the resting phase or they are getting ready to shed.

The BBL can target all types of hair except for blond, grey and red hair. It cannot target blond or grey because there is no pigment. Red hair is the same color as the light and therefore not able to be targeted.

During an average growth cycle approximately 10% – 20% of the hairs are in the active stage of growth. These are the hair follicles that are cauterized by the light during a treatment. For approximately 2 weeks after your treatment the hairs will push their way out of the skin and fall out. During the course of the average 6 week growth cycle, all the hairs will grow back minus 10% – 20%. The hairs that do grow back are finer and lighter. When you return for your second treatment we repeat the process to target another 10% – 20% and so on etc… until all the hair is gone. The average person needs between 5-8 treatments to be up to 95% hair free.

It is important to note that no machine can guarantee 100% permanent hair removal because there are so many things that affect hair growth such as hormones, pregnancy, certain medications, different stages in life etc… However with BBL we can offer a drastic hair reduction and in many cases all of the hair is completely removed. The hairs that are destroyed cannot come back, however we cannot control new hair growth that happens as a result of the aforementioned reasons like hormones, medication etc…

Most people say it feels like an elastic band snap. The pain is very similar to waxing only a different kind of pain. Waxing is more stingy whereas laser is more achey. However once the zap has happened the pain has stopped. It does not continue to ache for hours and hours, only a split second. If you can handle waxing you can definitely handle BBL.

Before the treatment you are to shave for a min of 6 weeks leading up to your appointment. This is to ensure we are targeting as many hairs as we can in the active stage of hair growth. No tweezing, waxing, depilatory creams etc… If you were to wax the area then come in for a treatment there would be no pigment for the light to see and essentially nothing would happen.

The most important instruction I can give, and I can’t stress this enough is, absolutely no tanning for 4 weeks before your treatment! If you have ever heard any horror stories about laser hair removal 9 times out of 10 it is because there was tanning.
When you are in the sun your body begins to produce melanocytes to create the tan. When the melanocytes are in the active stage (which can last for up to 4 weeks) the machine may not be able to tell the difference between the pigment in your follicles and the pigment in your skin, which could result in hyper or hypo-pigmentation. This can be very painful and unsightly, and could take up to a year to go away, if it even goes away at all. I cannot stress enough how important this piece of information is. If for some reason you have been tanning, like a vacation or a beautiful day in the park etc… simply wait four weeks before your next treatment. It will not ruin your treatments if you need to wait a little bit. Better to wait than risk a burn.

BBLs treats more then just hair removal. There are different filters to choose from which penetrate different layers of the epidermis based on what your concerns are. It can treat conditions such as acne, pigmentation (photo damage), vascular pigmentation (broken blood vessels), hair removal and skin tightening. The company that created this fabulous machine is constantly doing research and adjusting the existing parameters used so that we can achieve the best possible outcome based on your skin type. I’m a huge fan and am extremely pleased with my results so far. 

An Interesting Read: Beauty from the Inside out

      My sister sent me a great article to support my thoughts on "Nutrition and your skin". This is a great breakdown of how certain foods can affect and help correct certain skin concerns.  

Here is the link to the full article: http://goop.com/newsletter/146/en/

Interview with Dr. Nicholas Perricone, MD:

Q:You're known for advocating “beauty from the inside out,” so what kinds of foods should we be eating to combat different kinds of skin conditions such as dry skin, wrinkles, blemishes, etc?

A:“Our skin reflects our diet almost immediately. If we consume fatty, sugary and processed foods, our skin is likely to react by becoming inflamed, puffy and rough in texture. To maintain youthful, glowing skin, it's important to take these necessary steps:

1. Consume enough water. Water is vital to help flush out toxins and keep skin clear and hydrated.
2. For dry skin, load up on Omega-3's. These essential fatty acids (EFA's) are necessary for healthy, supple skin and help to repair the protective barrier that keeps moisture locked in. The most potent plant-based source of Omega-3 is chia seeds, with more Omega-3 than flax seed or wild Alaskan salmon. It's also recommended to use chia-based products, such as O-Mega Moisture from theSUPER line, my rich moisturizer loaded with chia oil.

3. For blemish-prone skin, I recommend a diet rich in greens, including watercress, spinach, collard greens and apples. The Vitamin A in these leafy greens helps normalize the production of oil, while the quercetin in green apples helps reduce mast cell activity, which leads to inflammation and breakouts. I use quercetin in Acne Solution from SUPER, as it exfoliates, brightens and balances the skin.

4. These foods are also good for sensitive skin, as is yogurt, a superfood loaded with probiotics and lactic acid to help soothe and calm redness and inflammation.
5. It's imperative to load up on antioxidants to maintain youthful, supple and radiant skin. Acai, blueberries and spices such as turmeric, cinnamon and ginger are all wonderful sources of antioxidants that help maintain healthy skin. These foods fight free-radical damage that leads to fine lines, wrinkles, dullness, sagging and lackluster skin.”

Q:We hear that you stick pretty religiously with an incredibly healthy, balanced diet ... So what does eating for your skin look like on a day-to-day basis?

A:“I’ve created a day’s worth of recipes as an example of how to load up on foods that are good for your skin.” (See the Recipes section below)

Q:You’re famous for having introduced the world to the concept of superfoods, what are the benefits of some of the ingredients included in your menu below?

A:“It's important to always remember beauty is an inside job. What we eat directly affects the appearance of our complexion and determines how we age. Each meal contains the three crucial components to a good-skin diet: protein, healthy fats, and good carbohydrates such as fresh fruit and vegetables. Not only will these nutrients yield beautiful skin, but they also have protective and preventative qualities that slow the aging process.”

The Building Blocks:

Protein is made up of amino acids that are the building blocks cells use to repair themselves. Healthy fats, especially Omega-3 fatty acids and monounsaturated fat, have powerful anti-inflammatory effects improving skin’s moistness, texture, suppleness and smoothness.

Fresh fruit and vegetables contain antioxidants that stave off free radicals, the aggressive molecules produced by a diet rich in sugars and starchy foods, as a byproduct of your metabolism or the environment. Free radicals create inflammation that damages your cells, resulting in inflexibility, wrinkles, sagging and the loss of firmness, tone, radiance and texture in the skin.

The “Super” Ingredients:

Wild Salmon is probably the world’s most heart healthy source of protein. It is rich in long-chain Omega-3 essential fatty acids—the most beneficial kind—which protect heart health, inhibit inflammation, act as natural anti-depressants, increase feelings of well-being, and help keep skin young, supple and radiant.

Asparagus is one of the richest sources of rutin, a bioflavanoid which strengthens small capillaries in the skin and may help prevent broken capillaries and it contains glutathione--an abundant and essential tripeptide antioxidant found within the cells that plays a huge role in the cell’s ability to fight free-radical damage. Glutathione is our primaryantioxidant defense and an effective suppressor of free radical damage.

Dark Leafy Greens are rich in the antioxidant plant pigments known as carotenoids, which enhance immune response, protect skin cells against UV radiation, and "spare" liver enzymes that neutralize carcinogens and other toxins. Their important anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory effects reduce the risk of heart disease and block sunlight-induced inflammation in the skin—which leads to wrinkles and skin cancer.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil is rich in oleic acid, which is a super emollient. The essential fatty acids present in olive oil nourish the skin and provide anti-inflammatory activity. The polyphenols that are found abundantly in olive oil are extremely efficient and multi-faceted antioxidants. Polyphenols are exceptionally stable and protective. The most powerful member of the Olive Oil Polyphenol group is Hydroxytyrosol. Extremely rare, and effective in even small concentrations, this super antioxidant, anti-inflammatory has been proven to be effective in improving general health and appearance.

Pinot Noir is a delightful wine to accompany foods like salmon because pinot noirs have enough acidity in them to mitigate the fatty content. Red wine contains a powerful heart-healthy, anti-cancer, anti-aging antioxidant called resveratrol. It also appears that resveratrolhelps protect the skin against the sun’s UV radiation. It appears that drinking wine—particularly red wines such as Pinot Noir—interferes with the production of a body chemical vital to the process that leads to clogged arteries and an increased risk of heart attack. White and rose wine do not offer the same protection.

Green Jasmine Tea—Enjoy a cup of green tea after your meal and don’t worry about the caffeine, since a compound in green tea called theonine blocks the negative effects of caffeine, while acting as a natural mood elevator and promoting feelings of well-being. Because green tea is rich in polyphenol anti-oxidants, it can help fight inflammation and age-accelerating free radicals, protect against heart disease and cancer, boost the body’s natural defenses, and exert anti-viral and anti-bacterial effects.

Nuts and Seeds such as hazelnuts, walnuts, and almonds are rich in short-chain Omega-3 essential fatty acids, which inhibit the accumulation of fats in artery walls that promotes angina, strokes, and heart attacks. Nuts are also high in the amino acid arginine, which prompts the body to release vital hormones, stimulate sexuality, increase lean muscle mass, burn fat, lower cholesterol and boost the immune system.

Apples are unusually high in fiber, with an average of five grams. According to the Harvard School of Public Health, we need approximately 20 to 35 grams of fiber per day, so one apple provides about 15 to 25 percent of your daily fiber requirement. Apples contain both soluble and insoluble fiber. The soluble fiber is known as “pectin,” and is the substance that is added to jams and jellies to make them gel. Pectin has the power to decrease the appetite for up to four hours, making it a more effective appetite suppressant than the insoluble fiber found in grains such as wheat and rye. (Oats, like apples, are also rich in soluble fiber.)

Pears offer protection from free radicals; Pears are high in both Vitamin C and copper, anti-oxidant nutrients that help prevent free radical damage to the cells. Both copper and Vitamin C also stimulates white blood cells to fight infections, and directly kills many bacteria and viruses. One medium size pear can provide about 11 percent of the daily value your body needs for Vitamin C, and almost 10 percent of the copper it needs. They also promote cardiovascular and colon health: The fiber in pears has been shown to lower high cholesterol levels. It also binds to cancer-causing chemicals in the colon, preventing them from damaging colon cells. Pears also protect against macular degeneration, the leading cause of vision loss in older adults and provide Vitamin B: Pears have a high concentration of folates, which make up the Vitamin B complex group. These vitamins are essential for metabolic activity and red blood cell production.

Old Fashioned Oatmeal is high in fibers that enhance weight control and discourages cardiovascular disease; the beta-glucan fiber in oats and also barley exerts beneficial anti-glycemic effects as well, helping to stabilize blood sugar.

Cinnamon helps stabilize blood sugar because it stimulates insulin receptors and inhibits an enzyme that inactivates them, thereby increasing cells’ ability to use glucose. Just one gram per day (approximately ¼ to ½ teaspoon) yields a 20 percent drop in blood sugar, and reduces cholesterol and triglyceride levels as well. Cinnamon also reduces cellular inflammation—a key age accelerator.

Fun fact: The mere scent of cinnamon enhances the brain’s cognitive processing, including attention, memory, and visual-motor speed.

Omega-3 Eggs are a terrific source of protein and Omega-3 essential fatty acids. The key is to make sure you purchase eggs from cage-free chickens that are fed flax meal. Not only are they much more nutritious, they taste wonderful.

Lemons and Lemon Juice contain important phytonutrients which protect lungs, alleviate chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, help prevent cancer by boosting the activity of detoxification enzymes in the liver, lower blood cholesterol levels, and inhibit cancer in human breast cells, skin, lungs, stomach, mouth, and colon cancer in laboratory animals. They also play an important role in the maintenance of elastin and the stabilization of collagen.

Berries are antioxidant and vitamin powerhouses. They contain important phytochemicals including phenolics, anthocyanins, carotenoids, and more. Blueberries also contains phytochemicals that can cross the blood-brain barrier and enter the areas of brain responsible for learning and memory. Raspberries are a rich source of Vitamin C—key for collagen production and also very high in ellegic acid superior inreducing the damage caused to cells from free radicals—like blueberries they are super anti-aging foods in just about every category.All berries are superb for all organ systems including skin.

Yogurt is a very good source of calcium, phosphorus, riboflavin-Vitamin B2 and iodine, Vitamin B12, pantothenic acid-Vitamin B5, zinc, potassium, protein and molybdenum. Yogurt that contains live bacterial cultures may help you to live longer, and may fortify your immune system. Research studies have shown that increased yogurt consumption, particularly in immuno-compromised populations such as the elderly, may enhance the immune response, which would in turn increase resistance to immune-related diseases.

Chickpeas are low in fat and sodium but high in complex carbohydrates and dietary fiber. In addition to lowering cholesterol, garbanzos' high fiber content prevents blood sugar levels from rising too rapidly after a meal, making these beans an especially good choice for individuals with diabetes, insulin resistance or hypoglycemia. They are also an excellent source of protein, needing only to be combined with grains such as barley or oats to provide all the amino acids necessary to make a complete protein for vegetarians who do not have other sources of protein for their meals.

Turmeric. The golden root of turmeric has been used since ancient times for both health and beauty. A superb anti-inflammatory, the active curcuminoids help even out skin tone and color and have superior cell-protective properties, helping to keep skin soft and supple while protecting against the oxidative stress that accelerates skin ageing.”

Product Profile: Kevin.Murphy

My latest obsession has to be anything by Kevin Murphy! It’s an Australian brand of hair products born from the same philosophy as skin care and inspired by nature’s best…which is probably why I love it so much. Not only does it work, it’s great for your hair!!! The products are made from renewable and sustainable resources whenever possible, using pure essential oils, plant extracts and natural antioxidants. All the hair products are sulphate and paraben free.

Some of my current favorites are:

Born.Again Wash and Born.Again Treatment: An ultra rich moisturising shampoo for extremely tortured and chemically dehydrated hair. It contains Hydrolysed Soy Protein that conditions and permanently bonds moisture to the hair. Alpha Hydroxyl Acids (AHA's) derived from fruit, scuff off dead skin cells from the scalp. Hydrolysed Wheat Proteins act as permanent conditioners. Vitamin B5 enhances the condition and silkiness of the hair, whilst melanin acts as a natural pigment to help protect colour fade.

Fresh.Hair: A dry shampoo for the hair that gives body and texture, removes odors, excess oil, and all your sins from the night before. For every can of FRESH.HAIR sold, a financial contribution will be made to help reduce global carbon emissions. Shake well and spray evenly and lightly onto dry hair and rub or brush through. Remember to SHAKE, SHAKE, SHAKE!

Damage.Manager: This is the centerpiece of the PROTECTION.LINE, containing the KEVIN.MURPHY X-HP^TM Complex, Arnica Root Extract - a natural herb that helps prevent inflammation, and Allantoin, extracted from the roots and leaves of the comfrey plant which has long been used to expedite healing. Apply this weightless spray mist just before you use heated appliances. DAMAGE.MANAGER can be used in conjunction with all other KEVIN.MURPHY styling products. For instant protection without residue, simply spray on the hair just before you apply heat. DAMAGE.MANAGER can be sprayed directly onto dry hair just before using heated appliances.

Scrub Season!

What better way to embrace autumn then a visit to the spa J

As autumn approaches, it’s the perfect time to shed some of that dry, weathered, sun damaged skin. It’s body scrub season!! If you have never experienced one of these magical treatments, you have to treat yourself! This is probably my favorite treatment to receive and I guarantee you’ll be hooked. Using either a salt or sugar based oil scrub your therapist will slough off the dead skin cells from neck to toes and then perform a mini facial using separate products from the scrub as it can be too aggressive for the delicate skin on your face. The scrub is then rinsed off in the shower leaving oils behind for a little added nourishment. Your skin will be refined and smooth leaving you feeling like a whole new person. Your therapist will do a body lotion application to ensure your skin is properly hydrated. Last but not least, depending on your skin type, appropriate moisturizer and eye cream are then applied to your face.

Now if a visit to the spa is not quite in your budget, I will share with you a quick and easy scrub you can make at home. All you really need is either sea salt or sugar (I prefer white sugar) and some sweet almond oil. Pour about half a cup of sugar (or salt) into a bowl followed by half a cup of sweet almond oil and mix (this is plenty of product to cover your entire body and have some left over). You may add some essential oils to this mixture for some aromatherapy benefits (only a few drops as they are very potent!).  Step into the shower and do your regular routine. When you’re done everything you normally do, turn off the water and grab your scrub. Taking small amounts, work the scrub over different parts of your body until you cover everything from toes up to your neck. Turn shower back on and rinse off. There is no need to use soap or anything to wash it off, the oil is great for your skin and you want to let it absorb.  Be sure to wash out the shower once you are finished, as the oils tend to make the tub really slippery, no injuries please! 

Freckles

            Freckles are a group of pigmented cells contained within the skin in small groups that may overlap each other making them vary in size. They’re usually small, flat, tan or light brown. They are not harmful nor an indication of a health concern. They can be found on anyone no matter their genetic background. Freckles are predominately found on the face, although they can appear on any skin exposed to the sun.

They are most common in children with a fair complexion. Being outside in the sun may cause freckles or make them darker. People with a lighter complexion have less melanin in their skin. Melanin is a chemical produced by melanocytes that helps protect the skin from sun damage by reflecting and absorbing UV rays. The more melanin in your skin the more tanned you look. People with fair complexions have less melanin in their skin to begin with, but some of their melanocytes make more melanin when exposed to the sun so instead of getting a suntan, they sometimes get freckles. Sometime freckles fade almost completely in winter and appear again in summer. Sometimes people have freckles that can be seen year-round. But for the most part they tend to fade, as people get older. 

Product Profile: Bio-Oil

Now typically I wouldn’t promote a product that contains mineral oil as one of the main ingredients but I have been using Bio-oil to help treat some scarring and I swear by it. I believe the essential oils and vitamins in this product override any negative effective that the mineral oil may have on the skin. 

It’s commonly used to treat scars, stretch marks, uneven skin tone, dehydrated skin and aging skin. Since seeing the benefits of this product on my scars, I actually started to use it on my face to help treat some reoccurring breakouts. I used it to help speed the healing process and reduce the potential for the breakout to scar. I saw huge improvements right away J I have a couple of friends who have also used this product to treat fresh scarring as well and it’s worked wonders! When I say fresh scarring I mean while the scars are new and still pink. Use it on your scabs to keep them hydrated and continue to use in on the new, fresh, pink skin once the scab has fallen off. Be sure to protect your skin though, you must be wearing an SPF or keep the injured area covered because the new skin is very vulnerable to UV damage which can lead to pigmentation.

10 Superfoods for great skin

1.)   Blueberries: full of antioxidants that fight free radicals protecting you from pre-mature aging

2.)   Wild Salmon: A great source of Omega-3 fatty acids that will help keep your skin moisturized and supple. Salmon also has selenium, a mineral that protects the skin from sun exposure. The vitamin D in salmon keeps your bones and teeth strong and healthy, too.

3.)   Spinach: This leafy green vegetable is rich in nutrients and antioxidants. Spinach is loaded with lutein, which keeps your eyes healthy and sparkling. Spinach is also a good source of vitamins B, C, and E, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, and omega-3 fatty acids

4.)   Tomatoes: The best source of the anti-aging antioxidant lycopene. Surprisingly, lycopene in tomatoes is more easily absorbed by your body when it is cooked or processed

5.)   Kiwi: This small, brown, fuzzy fruit is loaded with vitamin C and antioxidants, which keep skin firm, help prevent wrinkles, and are great for healthy bones and teeth. The antioxidants in kiwis also protect you from cancer and heart disease.

6.)   Yogurt: One cup of low-fat yogurt has more calcium than a cup of fat-free milk, which is great for your posture, nails, and teeth. It also helps to kill any bad bacteria that can cause acne and other skin problems.

7.)   Nuts: (Walnuts, Almonds and Pecans) High in omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamin E keeping your skin moisturized helping to protect against dry skin.

8.)   Pumpkin: High in Beta Carotene that helps repair dry skin and aids in protecting your skin from sun damage.

9.)   Green Tea: Anti-inflammatory, full of antioxidants and flavinoids. Anti aging and aids in the prevention of wrinkles.

10.)                  Water: Adequate hydration is essential for optimum skin health. Far too many people are chronically dehydrated as a result making them look older with superficial dehydration (fine lines and wrinkles) and an uneven complexion.

The importance of SPF

SPF or Sun Protection Factor plays a very important role in skin care.  Everyone should be wearing a minimum of SPF 30 on their face on a daily basis to protect it from harmful UV damage.

What do the numbers beside SPF stand for? This is that amount of time you can spend outdoors multiplied by the amount of time it takes for you to burn when you’re not wearing an SPF. For example, for my fair skin tone, if I were to go outside in the blazing sunshine unprotected I would burn in approximately 7min. So if I were wearing SPF 15, I can stay out 15 times longer then it takes me to burn. Let’s do the math: 15 x 7min = 105min. I can stay outside for 105min before I have to reapply my SPF.

Not only should you be wearing SPF to keep your skin looking young and beautiful but it plays a vital role in protection against skin cancer.

There are 3 different types of skin cancer.

1.)   Basal Cell Carcinoma (BCC):

a.     Most common (3-4x more common then SCC)

b.    Rarely metastasizes or causes death

c.     2:1 male to female ratio

2.)   Squamous Cell Carcinoma (SCC):

a.     Less common then BCC but common

b.    Can metatasize and/or cause death but not common

c.     2:1 male to female ratio

3.)   Melanoma:

a.     Least common skin cancer

b.    Most common cause of death

c.     1:1 male to female ratio

-       Skin cancer is, by far, the most common cancer diagnosed in Canada

-       1 in 7 Canadians will develop some form of skin cancer in their lifetime

-       Skin Cancers represent 1/3 of all new cases of cancer each year

-       Many with skin cancer develop recurrence and/or second primary skin cancers

-       Melanoma is the second most common skin cancer found in young adults (ages 15 – 34)

-       Incidence rates of melanoma are increasing

-       The most common areas to get BCC include ears, nose, scalp, forehead, back of hands, shoulders, neck & decolette because they are almost always exposed

-       The most common SCC is actinic keratosis which usually occurs on the lips

Be sun smart! Slip on a shirt, slap on a hat and slop on some sunscreen because we have all been affected by cancer whether it was a family member, friend or just someone we know and we want to do everything we can to protect ourselves.

http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/hl-vs/sun-sol/expos/skin-cancer-peau-eng.php

http://www.canadianskincancerfoundation.com/

My Top Ten favourite Products

1.)   ColoreScience Mineral Makeup: I am a trained make up artist as well as a skin therapist and I couldn’t be happier with this product line. I wear their minerals everyday. Not only does it have amazing coverage but it doubles as your daily SPF. Think of this product line as an extension of your skin care. It will leave your skin radiant and glowing. Benefits include: Antibacterial when exposed to sunlight, it's your daily SPF, moisture locking, oil absorbing, light weight and anti-inflammatory. 

2.) Antioxidant Hydramist: This is a toner from Dermalogica’s AgeSmart line. I use this to set my minerals. Its anti aging and extremely hydrating and let’s not forget to mention that it smells amazing too.  It contains pea and bamboo extracts in it which have a 'flash firming' effect on the skin. 

3.)   Micropeel: This is a 5% glycolic exfoliating masque from ProDerm (which happens to be my all time favourite product line). It's gentle and extremely effective. You only need to use it once a week for 20 - 30 min. It has lightening and brightening properties. A staff favourite for sure :)

4.)   Gentle Cleanser: ProDerm's one cleanser for all skin types. It's a nice balance between and milky and foaming cleanser. Has a slight glycolic molecule in it so it leaves your skin super soft and clear of congestion with regular use. It is pH balanced so that it's not necessary to use a toner after you cleanse (keeping it simple). Best used before using micropeel as it leaves the pH of your skin at a 4.5 rather then a 5.6 like most cleansers do, allowing the glycolic to be more active. Gentle enough to be used over eyes. I use this as my morning cleanser. 

5.)   Ultimate buffing cloth: A texturized cloth by Dermalogica. I use this everyday in the shower with my body wash. It leaves my skin super refined and soft. Great for those who suffer from ingrown hairs, particularly men who wax their backs because it is nice and long allowing you to exfoliate across your whole back. It is synthetic meaning that it will not harbour bacteria, all you have to do is give it a good rinse off once you're done using it and hang to dry (it dries in minutes making it ideal for travel). Machine washable. 

6.) AVST Eye Gel (Environ): Rich in antioxidant Vit A, C and E. Helps to soften the appearance of fine lines and gives a firmer and lifted look to the skin around the eyes. I'm a huge texture freak and this is by far my favourite texture out of any other product I use. 

7.)   Barrier Repair: A moisturizer from Prior's Advanced AHA line. It's light weight and silky smooth. Since using this I feel like there is a nice radiance to my skin again and I swear my pores appear to be smaller! I use this as my daytime moisturizer. 

8.) Revitalizing Cleanser: Daily Cleanser from Priori's CoffeeBerry line. One week using this cleanser and you'll fall in love. This exfoliating cleanser contains Malac Acid which is derived from fruit. CoffeeBerry is a powerful anti oxidant with phenomenal anti aging effects on the skin. It will help to reduce pigmentation and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It leaves your skin brighter and more radiant, even after just one use. I use this as my evening cleanser.

9.)   Day Complex: Day Moisturizer from Priori's CoffeeBerry line. It's is 98.5% natural for those of you who take comfort in non-chemical products. All skin types can use it but is best suited for dry, mature, sun-damaged skin. Has vanilla bean extract in it which smells so good, it may make people want to lick your face lol. It has a bit heavier consistency then barrier repair so I use this as my night cream.

10.)                  Terreus Masque: By ProDerm, used once a week for 20 - 30 min all over the face (avoiding eyes of course). It is soothing, toning and mattifying. The more you use this masque, the more mattifying effect it has on the skin. It's clay based but does not dry out the skin, in fact it's the complete opposite as it is super nourishing. I sometimes use it more then once a week but only on isolated areas of congestion like when I get hormonal breakouts on my chin and jaw-line to help clear it up faster. 

What are some of your favourite products?

3 Easy steps towards Healthy Skin

             I know that skin care can be a very overwhelming routine to take on, so I just wanted to do a quick post to let you know what I think the 3 most important steps to great skin are.

            Step 1: Cleanse – this is to be done on a daily basis, both morning and night, or if you’re really crunched for time, keep your cleanser in the shower and wash your face there as part of your daily routine. Ideally you should be doing a double cleanse. The first to remove make up & product (to prep the skin), the second is to actually cleanse the skin free of dirt and oils.

            Step 2: Exfoliate – this is to be done on a weekly basis. Depending on the brand and type of exfoliant, 1 – 2 times a week is plenty, as you don’t want to irritate the skin or thin it out too much. Adding this step alone into your regime, I guarantee you will see a huge improvement in clarity and texture, leaving your skin fresh, refined and glowing J

            Step 3: Moisturize – this is to be done on a daily basis, both morning and night. Either following your cleanse or after you’ve exfoliated your skin. Your morning moisturizer should contain SPF to protect your skin from UV Damage. I say a minimum of SPF 20 for the face as it is always exposed.

            Easy as pie! Once you’ve mastered these steps then we can start introducing other products into your skin care regime J

Pregnancy and Skin Care Products

           In light of my sister recently having a baby and making me an aunty for the first time, I though this would be the perfect topic of conversation J During pregnancy there are safety considerations regarding skin care products worth taking note of for the health and stability of the fetus. The body does a good job of protecting the fetus by filtering bacteria and germs through the placenta but there are some ingredients in our products that can make their way through to a developing fetus.

What does this even mean and why is it important? Using certain products like retinols and glycolics can ultimately enter into the bloodstream and potentially hinder the development of the fetus. I recently just started doing research regarding this matter because I wanted to make sure my sister was using appropriate skin care products throughout her pregnancy.  It turns out that certain products take nutrients that should be going to the development of the fetus and use them to nourish your skin instead.

Here is just a quick list of product to avoid during pregnancy:

-                Salicylic Acid (BHA or Beta Hydroxy Acid): often found in acne products, exfoliants and anti-aging products.

-                Retinol A: this is a form of Vitamin A that is commonly used to treat acne and is anti-aging. High doses of Vitamin A have been proven to be harmful to a baby.

-                Parabens: Used as a preservative. While it is an ingredient worth avoiding for all of us research is beginning to show a link from parabens to an adverse effect on the reproductive system of baby boys. Once again more research is needed but as a mom-to-be why risk it.

-                Essential oils: Not all essential oils are harmful but there are certain ones worth avoiding. Here is a list of SAFE essential oil that can be used in moderation during pregnancy: Bergamot, Calendula, Virginia Cedar, Roman and Moroccan Chamomile, Elemi, Fir, Frankincense - Boswelia Carterii,  Helichrysum, Lavender Angustifolia,  Neroli,  Sweet Myrrh – Oppapanax, Patchouli, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Spruce, Ylang Ylang. Anything else I wouldn’t touch.

-                Benzoyl Peroxide: Again another product most commonly used to treat acne, can be harmful to the baby.

Here is a useful link that has a more in-depth list of ingredients to avoid and why: http://www.natural-living-for-women.com/avoid-during-pregnancy.html

Dermal Fillers

What are dermal fillers you ask? Dermal fillers are injected into your skin to fill lines and restore lost volume, enhancing your facial contours. At my spa we use a non-animal, non-allergenic, standardized hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in our bodies, so when we use fillers such as these, the body accepts them without allergic reaction and are slowly broken down over time. As part of the skins natural aging process, we experience loss of elasticity and dermal collagen. There are many contributing factors including sun, stress and life style choice.

The most common areas treated include lip enhancement, smile lines, eye contour, chin and jaw line contouring, pitted scarring and non-surgical nose job. When used in conjunction with Botox, you can get some amazing results and it tends to last longer too. This is a great alternative to surgery with minimal to no down time. Some people pop into get these treatments done on their lunch breaks and are good to head straight back to the office without anyone noticing anything different except for maybe looking more refreshed, well rested and youthful ;) 

There is a great article from Forbes.com that I’ll attach a link to if anyone is interested in reading more on this topic  http://www.forbes.com/2009/05/26/dermal-filler-cosmetic-forbes-woman-well-being-facelift.html