Monday 12 December 2011

Breakdown of skin care products


       I get a lot of people asking what they should be doing on a daily basis for there skin. I’ve already written about the 3 most important steps in skin care, I thought it was time for me to elaborate.

Cleansing: This should be done twice a day (morning and night), everyday. If you plan to cleanse your skin only once per day, the more important cleanse would be in the evening to rid your skin of the daily pollutants, dirt and oils. There are MANY types of cleansers out there. I would recommend a professional brand purchased from a legitimate spa as most cleansers in drug stores and department stores contain detergents and other irritants. Actually I encourage you to ALWAYS purchase your skin care from a reputable spa or clinic to ensure you’re not damaging your skin with inappropriate products.

Toning: This should be done on a daily basis after cleansing your skin. Toners are traditionally used to rebalance the pH levels of your skin as water can alter it but now most toners often have hydrating properties to them (this allows your moisturizer to last longer – having to use less product).

Exfoliating: Used to refine and even out skin texture by sloughing off the dead skin cells on the surface. It’s also an important step in keeping pores clear to help prevent future breakouts. Depending on the method of exfoliating your using, this can either be done on a daily or weekly basis. Daily exfoliating cleansers usually come in forms of glycolic, salicylic or alpha hydroxy acid washes (basically any wash containing some form of acid) or a wash with gentle exfoliating particles in it. Weekly exfoliants tend to be more aggressive on the skin whether it be particles or in a mask form. These can be used 1 to 2 times a week. Read instructions for recommended frequency of use. Remember, sometimes less is more. There is such thing as over exfoliation. Signs of over exfoliation include irritation, redness and thinning of the skin.

Masques: An intense and effective way to charge your skin with nutrients or treat a specific concern (for best results, masque after doing a really good exfoliation first - this allows for better product penetration). Again, you want to read the instructions on the box for frequency of use, typically 1 – 2 times a week.

Serums/Targeted treatments: These are developed at higher concentrations with active ingredients like vitamins and anti-oxidants that are chemically formulated with smaller molecules to penetrate deeper into the epidermis. Serums are designed to treat various skin conditions such as acne, redness, dehydration, pigmentation and lack of firmness. It is best to apply these before your moisturizer.

Moisturizer:  Used to hydrate the external layers of your skin. Moisturizing should be done twice a day, everyday (morning and evening). This is the last step. I always tell my clients to apply to the outer parts of the face first (hairline, temples & cheeks) and then bring the remaining moisturizer to the center (forehead & nose). This is just because we typically produce more oils on the nose/t-zone, meaning we don’t need to apply the moisturizer there first. Start with the dryer features and then bring whatever is left over to the areas that tend to be more hydrated, naturally.

Eye Cream: Often overlooked but very important. The skin surrounding your eyes is the thinnest, most delicate skin on your body. With that being said, it needs to be treated differently. Facial moisturizers are to be kept out of the orbital zone (the area around your eyes), as they are typically too heavy for that skin and can lead to milia. Using an appropriate eye cream not only ensures proper hydration in that area but also helps to decongest (drain lymph which contributes to dark circles) and protect against free radicals that break down your skins elasticity leading to the appearance of ‘crows feet’ (fine lines around the eyes). Crows feet happen to be one of the first things to give away ones age. Don’t worry if you already have them...there’s always Botox ;) Eye creams should be used both morning and night after moisturizing your face. I will usually apply a little eye cream to my lip line as well just to prevent lip wrinkles. Be sure not to over lap facial moisturizer and eye cream as that can lead to congestion and build up. 

No comments:

Post a Comment