A New Chapter…

      For those who are curious, I have recently just started a new chapter in my life and am currently enrolled in school to become a Licensed Practical Nurse. I am doing this intensive one-year program to further my career and branch into medical esthetics. I just wanted to let everyone know incase you were wondering why my posts are becoming few and far between. I will continue to blog because this is what I love to do, I just ask for patience as I am going to be insanely busy come the New Year. Don't worry, I am still working at Spruce every second weekend but be sure to book in advance as I am almost fully booked until February. I am super excited to venture down this new road and I’ll keep you posted on progress!

Protect your Skin!

I went skiing up in Whistler over the holidays and boy did my face take a beating! Just a friendly reminder to those who like to take advantage of outdoor activities such as skiing, sailing, surfing, riding, snow shoeing, etc., be sure to use some sort of protective barrier cream and maybe a heavier moisturizer in the winter weather to help combat dry skin season. There’s one product in particular that I’d like to mention, Barrier Repair from Dermalogica. It creates a protective shield for your skin, and it saved my face on the hill this week!  Use in on top of your moisturizer and remember a little goes a long way! Our winter has been pretty mild so far but my skin is still a little bit on the drier side so I switched back to using regenerating cream by ProDerm. It’s a nice, thick, heavy cream that absorbs nicely into the skin (it doesn’t leave you skin feeling slick or greasy…love love love it).  I’ve mentioned this particular moisturizer in older posts if you want to read up on it.  One last thing…don’t forget your SPF!!! Especially with the double reflection on the snow…you can get some serious pigmentation happening on the hill. I’m sure you all have seen goggle tans at some point in your life…not good for your skin!

Happy Holidays!! 

Breakdown of skin care products

       I get a lot of people asking what they should be doing on a daily basis for there skin. I’ve already written about the 3 most important steps in skin care, I thought it was time for me to elaborate.

Cleansing: This should be done twice a day (morning and night), everyday. If you plan to cleanse your skin only once per day, the more important cleanse would be in the evening to rid your skin of the daily pollutants, dirt and oils. There are MANY types of cleansers out there. I would recommend a professional brand purchased from a legitimate spa as most cleansers in drug stores and department stores contain detergents and other irritants. Actually I encourage you to ALWAYS purchase your skin care from a reputable spa or clinic to ensure you’re not damaging your skin with inappropriate products.

Toning: This should be done on a daily basis after cleansing your skin. Toners are traditionally used to rebalance the pH levels of your skin as water can alter it but now most toners often have hydrating properties to them (this allows your moisturizer to last longer – having to use less product).

Exfoliating: Used to refine and even out skin texture by sloughing off the dead skin cells on the surface. It’s also an important step in keeping pores clear to help prevent future breakouts. Depending on the method of exfoliating your using, this can either be done on a daily or weekly basis. Daily exfoliating cleansers usually come in forms of glycolic, salicylic or alpha hydroxy acid washes (basically any wash containing some form of acid) or a wash with gentle exfoliating particles in it. Weekly exfoliants tend to be more aggressive on the skin whether it be particles or in a mask form. These can be used 1 to 2 times a week. Read instructions for recommended frequency of use. Remember, sometimes less is more. There is such thing as over exfoliation. Signs of over exfoliation include irritation, redness and thinning of the skin.

Masques: An intense and effective way to charge your skin with nutrients or treat a specific concern (for best results, masque after doing a really good exfoliation first - this allows for better product penetration). Again, you want to read the instructions on the box for frequency of use, typically 1 – 2 times a week.

Serums/Targeted treatments: These are developed at higher concentrations with active ingredients like vitamins and anti-oxidants that are chemically formulated with smaller molecules to penetrate deeper into the epidermis. Serums are designed to treat various skin conditions such as acne, redness, dehydration, pigmentation and lack of firmness. It is best to apply these before your moisturizer.

Moisturizer:  Used to hydrate the external layers of your skin. Moisturizing should be done twice a day, everyday (morning and evening). This is the last step. I always tell my clients to apply to the outer parts of the face first (hairline, temples & cheeks) and then bring the remaining moisturizer to the center (forehead & nose). This is just because we typically produce more oils on the nose/t-zone, meaning we don’t need to apply the moisturizer there first. Start with the dryer features and then bring whatever is left over to the areas that tend to be more hydrated, naturally.

Eye Cream: Often overlooked but very important. The skin surrounding your eyes is the thinnest, most delicate skin on your body. With that being said, it needs to be treated differently. Facial moisturizers are to be kept out of the orbital zone (the area around your eyes), as they are typically too heavy for that skin and can lead to milia. Using an appropriate eye cream not only ensures proper hydration in that area but also helps to decongest (drain lymph which contributes to dark circles) and protect against free radicals that break down your skins elasticity leading to the appearance of ‘crows feet’ (fine lines around the eyes). Crows feet happen to be one of the first things to give away ones age. Don’t worry if you already have them...there’s always Botox ;) Eye creams should be used both morning and night after moisturizing your face. I will usually apply a little eye cream to my lip line as well just to prevent lip wrinkles. Be sure not to over lap facial moisturizer and eye cream as that can lead to congestion and build up. 

Oil of Oregano

            Flu season is upon us, so I thought it was only appropriate to write about this magical little cure all. Oil of Oregano is a natural substance that has significant effects on harmful organisms that cause illness.

            It is known to be a potent antiviral, anti bacterial, anti fungal, and anti parasitic oil that can reduce pain and inflammation and effectively fight off infections.  Some specific benefits include:

-       Destroying organisms that contribute to skin infections and digestive problems

-       Strengthens the immune system

-       Increases joint and muscle flexibility

-       Improves respiratory health

            Oil of oregano can be applied directly onto the skin to treat itches, skin infections and irritated gums but only if diluted! Usually need to mix with olive or coconut oil before applying topically (follow directions on the bottle for topical treatments) usually one drop of oil of oregano to one-teaspoon olive or coconut oil. If you apply the full concentration straight onto a skin infection it does not feel pleasant! So be sure to follow the directions.

            It has been shown to calm upset stomachs and aid digestion. It’s a great natural remedy for sinus infections!! Oil of Oregano is an excellent early defense mechanism when you feel a cold or sore throat coming on; just take a few drops daily to help boost your immune system until the symptoms are gone. 

A favorite few: Make up Products

1.)   Sin-full Lash Mascara by Kat Von D: If you’ve ever used Diorshow Backstage Mascara and loved it as much as I did, you will love this mascara too (and it’s not as pricey) J

2.)   Laura Mercier Secret Camoflauge: This face concealer completely camouflages dark circles, minor imperfections and discolorations. It contains a two-shade system, one to match the skins depth of color and one to match the skins undertone, making it possible for everyone to custom-blend their own perfect shade.

3.)   ColoreScience Apple of my eye blush: Easy application, great color and a little bit of shimmer, which acts as a highlight along the tops of your cheekbones.

4.)   Annabelle Kohl eyeliner – black – 73: I have been using this product for 11 years! I discovered this magical little eyeliner pencil when I was in grade 9 and have yet to find a product that is as effective as this one. All my other girlfriends are still hooked on it too. Now we don’t use it to line the tip of our lids, but instead to line the ‘wet-line’ of our inner eye. Set with an eye shadow for all daywear.

5.)   Urban Decay waterproof liquid liner: The slender tapered brush lays down long lasting matte, slick and shimmery shades. Can create lines razor-thin or thick, even and bold. The brush is easy to control as long as you have a steady hand ;)

6.)   Sephora Collection - Cream Lip Stain Forever Fuchsia (satin electric fuchsia): This BOLD long lasting stain doesn’t smudge or transfer and yet at the end of the night it’s super easy to remove.

7.)   ColoreScience Retractable Brush Foundation: Loose mineral foundation SPF 20. Simple, self-dispensing powder brush. Great coverage, balanced skin tone and glowing radiance. Once you have run out of the powder, you can continue to buy refills for the retractable brush at half the cost J

8.)   MAC Paint Pot:  A highly pigmented eye colour that goes on creamy but dries to an intense, vibrant finish. Longwearing, without weight or caking. Best to set with a powder eye shadow on top.

9.)   Antioxidant Hydramist: A refreshing, hydrating toner with ‘flash firming’ effects. Use to set your minerals (sprits the skin after applying your mineral foundation. Makes for long lasting coverage and an even distribution of SPF 20. Water resistant, anti bacterial and soothing.)

10.)         Climate control lip treatment: A soothing balm to help damaged skin recover from environmental assault while providing a barrier against harsh environmental pollutants. Great as a base under lipstick/gloss. 

New tanning trend…

        It was brought to my attention the other day that there is a new trend out there regarding UVA tanning beds. Some salons offer this tanning bed claiming that UVA rays are less damaging because they don’t contain the ray responsible for burning the skin (UVB). This is CRAZY! UVA rays penetrate further into your epidermis causing more damage to your skin in the long run. It takes longer (more tanning sessions) to develop a tan as UVB activate melanin faster then UVA. With that being said, more tanning session will be required to reach and maintain your desired tan with UVA beds. Now going back to the point that I made about UVA penetrating deeper into the skin, this is causing breakdown of collagen and elastin production, which ultimately accelerates the aging process. This leaves your skin loose, with a lack of tone and overtime, loss of volume. Is there an alternative to tanning beds?…Spray tans! Although I’m not too sure how I feel about suffocating the largest organ in your body (the skin) with an artificial color. I guess it’s no worse then lathering yourself up with heavily scented body lotions potentially full of mineral oils/petroleum, parabens, Acrylamide or Dioxane after the bath or shower. 

Physical vs. Chemical Sunscreens

Do you know what is really happening to our skin when it is hit by UVA and UVB rays? The shorter UVB rays do the majority of damage in the top layer of our skin called the epidermis – these rays are responsible for majority of suntans and burns. Longer UVA rays do the majority of damage in the second layer of our skin the dermis.  I like to remember them as UVA (Age) and UVB (Burn). The dermis is where all our collagen and structural elements reside.   When energy of these small particles of light strike our skin (where the light wave stops), the energy released alters the chemistry of that component of the skin and damages it.  This is the initial damage.  These chemical changes also produce free radicals and these radicals continue on to cause additional damage (secondary damage) to other skin components.  

 In time this repetitive photo-damage and free radical damage will break down collagen and elastin.  Your pigment cells called melanocytes become dysfunctional and produce volumes of pigment that result in age spots and other forms of pigment (hyper and/or hypo).  The fibroblast cells stop producing new collagen leaving your skin slack.  

It is estimated that 90% of sun damage is the result of unplanned or casual sun exposures when people may not have active photo-protection.  This can include riding in a car,  or just going for a short walk with their dog without wearing proper sunscreen. Unfortunately, 90% of sun damage is already done by the time you are 18 years old.

            Chemical sunscreens protect the skin by absorbing the light particles.   When this energy is absorbed, the molecules of the sunscreen are destroyed, rather than a skin component but this still results in chemical reactions (usually producing heat in the skin that can lead to irritation).Subsequently chemical sunscreens are not the most complete or effective form of sun protection. They prevent a larger degree of the initial sun damage but allow secondary free radical damage, which adds to the speed of the skin ageing process.

            Physical sunscreens on the other hand such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide work by reflecting the photons of light up and out of the skin so there is no absorption of energy.  There is no chemical reaction and no free radicals are produced.  

            A physical sunscreen is a crucial part of anti-aging and skin health. Look for products that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as their SPF. My all time favorite product line is Colorescience (obviously). I have mentioned this product in previous posts. I don’t leave the house without it, no matter what the weather is like outside. It comes in the form of a mineral make up as well as a translucent or tinted powdered SPF 30.  The perks of having it in powder for, easy application, no dripping into the eyes, and it’s cooling on the skin because it reflects the UV rays instead of absorbing it and causing a chemical reaction in the skin usually producing heat. All in all it’s just an amazing, convenient product.