Botox

People have this preconceived notion that if you get Botox, your face is going to be frozen and you’ll have no expression or emotion. This is not the case. You do not need to pump your face full of Botox! When it’s done correctly you shouldn’t be able to tell that you have it, except for the fact that you look refreshed and well rested.

One of the nurses that I work with who administers Botox always says, the good thing about botox is that if you don’t like it…it wears off. The bad thing about botox is that it wears off. Lol.

Who’s an ideal candidate? Well if you’re concerned with dynamic lines that have become more apparent over time, then this treatment is great. But don’t get botox just based on what you read about it, if you’re curious go in for a consultation and discuss your concerns, then decide if it’s right for you. The nurse or doctor doing the consultation will address any questions you may have and determine if your expectations are realistic. Botox and fillers are a great alternative to surgery (face lift, brow lift etc.), non-invasive, quick and effective. Botox reduces the activity of the muscle, which over time will create those unwanted deep lines.

We treat men and women, young and old. Clients in there 20’s to early 30’s come in for prevention, less units are used to prolong the aging process. When you get into your 40’s – 50’s, a lot of damage has already been done; more units are used thus making these visits more expensive then if you were to start earlier as a preventative measure.

Botox has been licensed in Canada since 1990 as a safe and effective treatment for a variety of medical conditions. In 2001, Health Canada approved Botox Cosmetic for wrinkle therapy.

Chemical Peels

            There are many different levels of chemical peels out there. Some can only be administered by your doctor or dermatologist where others you can receive by your skin therapist. We offer two different types of peels at Spruce Body Lab where I work. The first is a glycolic and the other is an Advanced AHA (or Alpha Hydroxy Acid).

            Alpha Hydroxy Acids are naturally occurring carboxylic acids. These acids aim to treat fine lines/wrinkles, dryness, pigmentation and acne/acne scaring. AHA’s can be mixed into facial wash or night creams in lesser concentration to improve skin tone and clear congestion. The AHA umbrella consists of 5 usual fruit acids; citric (citrus derived), glycolic (derived from sugar cane), lactic (derived from milk), malic (derived from apples) and tartaric (derived from grapes).

            The priori Advanced AHA peel we offer at Spruce Body Lab is a unique combination of lactic acid, the cell signal AHA natural to the human body, and multiple essential skin antioxidant vitamins – A, C, E and Pro-A in a self-regenerating complex – all vital to proper skin cell renewal rates. Lactic acid is superior to all other AHAs (70-95% more effective than glycolic acid) at increasing hyaluronic acid disposition in the skin, and therefore is the AHA of choice for increasing the skin’s natural moisture content, critical in the treatment of aging skin. Priori’s theory is that with intense aggressive peels, the inflammation and downtime to ‘heal’ your skin actually speeds up the aging process.  That is what makes this peel so desirable, it’s gentle, yet very effective.

            Glycolic peels tend to be slightly more aggressive as it is the smallest AHA molecule, meaning it can penetrate deeper, faster. We offer either a 40% glycolic peel (pH 1.5) or for those who have really tolerant skin, a 60% glycolic peel (pH 1.5). In addition to concentration, pH plays a large part in determining potency. The lower the pH levels, the more aggressive the peel. We can leave this peel on up to 5 minutes depending on how tolerant your skin is. We also used a method called panelling for application. This means treating one panel of your face at a time (forehead, left cheek, right cheek, nose then chin). This helps us to prevent any injury from occurring. If not done correctly or left on to long, you can experience frosting which can lead to your skin weeping which will turn into scabbing. Not trying to scare you or anything. Just make sure you have someone who is educated and knows what they're doing if you ever receive this treatment. 

            I have seen some amazing results from both peels we offer. As your therapist we would discuss your concerns and expectations, then take a look at your skin to determine which peel would best suit your needs. Just like microdermabrasion, if you are treating a certain concern we could do this peel in a series of 6, two weeks apart, for optimal results. Another way to get some fantastic results is to combine doing mircodermabrasion followed by the Advanced AHA peel. It will leave your skin looking and feeling AMAZING!

Microdermabrasion

           What is Microdermabrasion you ask? It’s one of the more intensive methods of exfoliation (the removal of dead skin cells and debris on the surface of your skin). There are different types of micro, most commonly, crystals are passed along the surface of the skin with a suction hand piece which removes the dead skin cells. Your therapist can control how aggressive they want the settings based on your concerns and what’s best for your skin type. Micro can also be used in combination with peels for even more effective results.

            Microdermabrasion can be used to treat a variety of skin concerns including exfoliation, acne scaring, age spots, fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pores, stretch marks and hyperpigmentation. It also stimulates collagen production and cell turnover. Microdermabrasion will leave your skin feeling smooth and improve texture.

            Personally I love microdermabrasion. It’s definitely one of those treatments that you will get addicted to. When treating a specific skin concern, like acne scarring or pigmentation for example, it’s best done in a series of 6 sessions 7 – 10 days apart for maximum results. You can have this treatment as your monthly facial but I say this treatment is great at the end of every season (this makes it a little more affordable as it can be rather expensive depending on your budget). Micro can be done anywhere on your body too…not just on your face. I have clients that come in for micro on their necks, chest, shoulders, back and even upper arms. I like to do this treatment after any hot tropical vacation. I find that my skin is usually congested from sunscreens and a little dull when I come back from a sunny vacation. Micro is a great way to get rid of all that ‘weathering’ your skin experienced (recirculated air on the flights, climate change, change in diet, alcohol consumption…all that fun stuff that tends to reflect on your skin).

            For such an effective method of exfoliation, there is very little to no downtime for this treatment. Some pinkness may arise, but for the most part I find that by the time my clients leave any pink/redness in their skin has subsided.

            So book in peeps! Summers almost here…let’s get your skin radiant and glowing for the season J

www.sprucebodylab.com

Drug Store vs. Professional Products

           This is one of my favorite topics of conversation. I always get asked “what’s the difference” between buying your skin care products from the drug store versus buying them at a spa. First of all, you get what you pay for. I’m not saying you have to spend $300 on a 30mL jar of eye cream (yes I used to sell skin care that expensive) but look at the ingredients. Many drug store products tend to have lower price points because they cut corners by using cheaper ingredients. Department store and drug store products tend to contain larger quantities of alcohol and other irritating components in them. These actually end up being counter productive. Mineral oil is also a very common ingredient among these that actually hinders the penetration of products. It sits on the surface of the skin and is also a known comedogenic (tends to produce or aggravate acne).

            Do you ever wonder why you don’t see professional skin care brands from spas advertised on TV, Radio or Newspapers? It’s because they put their money into research and development, not advertising. 

            Now when a client comes in and tells me they are using Pro-active…this breaks my little heart. Don’t get me wrong, pro-active works…but it is just so incredibly harsh on your skin. It’s over drying and strips your skin of its natural moisture barrier without even trying to replenish the pH levels. It’s also a celebrity endorsed product…again not much money going into research and development. You have to treat it like an antibiotic…once you stop using it; your skin is going to go back to breaking out and may even be worse. For anyone that has used this product they’ve probably noticed that it can bleach out your towels, shirts and pillowcases. Take that into consideration and think about what it’s really doing to your skin!

            My favorite product right now is ProDerm. It’s made in Canada and is a high-quality cosmeceutical product line. Minimal products with maximum results! I find there are some product lines out there that can be over whelming with to many skews and steps. I like to keep things simple and have seen great results with this line J

http://www.pro-derm.com/en/

Glycolic Facial Cleansers

            Cleansers that contain some form of acid (glycolic, Salicylic, Lactic etc.) can be very beneficial to your face and other problem areas on your body (acne on your back or chest, karatosis polaris-the little red bumps on the back of your arms). Using an exfoliating cleanser on a daily basis will help to keep your skin refine and clear from congestion. You will start to notice a more even complexion, and your skin will appear radiant and have a youthful glow to it . These cleansers are great for individuals concerned with pigmentation as they having brightening and lightening properties. Mature skin types really benefit from these as well because they contribute to an increase of cellular turnover. As we age, skin desquamation (the duration in which the outer layer of your skin sheds) slows down and needs a little help speeding up that process. It's great for acneac/congested skin types as long as it's not too sensitive and there are no open pustules or else this may become extremely irritating.  It also preps the skin and allows for better product penetration.

            We have a fantastic product line called Priori at my spa. We carry the Advanced AHA Cosmeceuticals and CoffeeBerry Natureceuticals. Both branches have cleansers that contain acids in them. From the Advanced AHA, a gentle facial cleanser that contains alpha hydroxy acids and a revitalizing cleanser from the CoffeeBerry that contains malic acid.  They are both very active and we have seen great results from them on our clients. I would say the Advanced AHA is geared more towards problematic skin and the revitalizing cleanser for those concerned with pigmentation who want to lighten/brighten their skin for a more even complexion. 

            Now not all skin types can tolerate an exfoliating cleanser. They can cause sensitivities if used incorrectly. The key is to start low and go slow. Start using it just in the evenings 3 days a week and then introduce an extra day each week that follows until you’re using it up to 7 days a week, both morning and night, but only if your skin can tolerate it. If you develop any irritation or sensitivity be sure to back off a little on frequency of use. You don't have to use exfoliating cleansers both morning and night, for most of my clients, usually once a day is plenty. 

            If you are using an exfoliating cleanser, SPF daily is an absolute must although should be wearing an SPF on a daily basis regardless. The acids eat away at your dead skin cells leaving the fresh new skin vulnerable to UV Damage. I prefer to use something like Colorescience, which is a mineral make up. They have an SPF 30 face powder, which is great because I hate putting too many layers of cream on my skin.

http://www.prioriskincare.com/

http://www.colorescience.com/

Nutrition and your Skin

               Let's be honest, there is a direct link between what you eat and your skin. I am surprised by the reaction of my clients when I tell them this! I'm not saying that if your diet's not the greatest you're going to have bad skin, but I am saying that it could be contributing to some problems you may be noticing. If you have ever heard the expression you are what you eat, there is truth to that. If you eat a lot of greasy foods chances are you will have an oily complexion with some congestion and maybe even some breakout. If you eat a lot of spicy foods this can contribute to heat in the skin (redness & broken capillaries).

Did you know the most common breakout area after a night of drinking is between the eyes around the eyebrows? On an acupressure meridian this area represents the liver, so it makes sense that your body is detoxing in the form of breakout there.

Adequate hydration is important for healthy skin considering it does make up the majority of our body weight. It’s better to be properly hydrated then dehydrated. Dehydration shows in the skin as very fine lines on the surface. As long as your kidneys are functioning properly and you take in more water then your body uses in a day, your hydration levels should be optimal.  

Making sure you have a diet full of vitamins and minerals is essential for optimal skin health. Each vitamin plays a vital role in structure, growth and development of tissue in every part of your body including your skin. If you consume the proper vitamins in appropriate quantities, your skin should be healthier, radiant and vibrant. If you find yourself deficient in vitamins A,C,D and E you may find your skin to be a little dull or even sallow. 

Skin and Soap

     When I hear that people are using soap and water on their skin it makes me cringe (like nails down a chalk board!). Soap is so bad for your skin! Not only is it stripping your skin of its natural moisture barrier but also it’s setting you up for pre-mature aging. It causes you skin to work overtime to produce those natural oils that keep it moisturized. This may lead to other problems such as obvious dryness, tight, shiny, or even oily skin. Your skin is now over compensating for the lack of oils, which can lead to shiny, oily skin as the day progresses and then you go home and wash your face with a bar of soap to rid your skin of the excess oils it produced in the first place which kicks starts your skin into overdrive again trying to make up for that lack of moisture. It’s a vicious cycle that needs to be broken! Not to mention the added fragrance, dyes and alcohol that soap contains which are straight up irritating the skin which can lead to redness, itching and burning. And I wonder why no matter what type of skin our clients have, 99% of the time everyone describes their skin as ‘sensitive’.

     This also applies to soap that you’re using on your body too. The skin on our body is much more resilient then the skin on our face so we may not notice the negative effects right away (redness, tightness and dryness). It's the long-term effects that we need to be worried about. Nobody wants skin that looks wrinkly, weathered and scaly. This could potentially happen over years of not using appropriate products  for your skin. Think about how a bar of soap dries itself out over time and how it starts to shrivel up and crack... 

     So pay attention! Watch your skin and listen to what it’s telling you J